add f17 d33pthought ffmu

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d33pthought42 2020-01-09 15:23:53 -05:00
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# F17 FFMU
* Fock 17: Free Folk Measure Up
* d33pthought revision of FMDA/Ivan's G17
## overview
This is a writeup for d33pthought's improvements to Free Men Don't Ask & Ivan's G17 model, which is patterned on the Glock G17 gen 3 frame. Included elements of this work:
* git:
* this readme:
* print parameters
* modifications to FMDA G17
* verification overview
* improved model files:
* [step](models/f17_d33p_ffmu.step) [stl](models/f17_d33p_ffmu.stl)
* without embellishments: [step](models/f17_d33p_ffmu_no-embellish.step) [stl](models/f17_d33p_ffmu_no-embellish.stl)
* jig model: [step](models/jig_f17_rails.step) [stl](models/jig_f17_rails.stl)
* [assembly guide](f17_assembly.md)
* [public pgp keys](verification/public_keys.pgp):
* d33pthought:
* github master key: `6B2062CCB178107C9FC3CA3209978FA36F146505`
* github signing key: `10DBC5509AF9E4DE58A7937C21A5E4B5F4209362`
* keybase: `85C2CE700955C042689F32CFC8597C06BED287DA`
* ctrlpew: `7E661D686F0CDA8B`
* downloaded via keybase in early Jan 2020 - no additional verification performed
* (ctrlpew is only det_disp admin with listed public pgp key)
* [checksums for model files](verification/model_checksums_sha512)
* video assembly tutorial at gunstreamer:
* [1: support removal 1](https://gunstreamer.com/v/1G7QBt?b=1)
* [2: support removal 2](https://gunstreamer.com/v/px4hbc?b=1)
* [3: drill holes](https://gunstreamer.com/v/TtgeFk?b=1)
* [4: thread frame](https://gunstreamer.com/v/8u7zSC?b=1)
* [5: rails](https://gunstreamer.com/v/rY4VNY?b=1)
* [6: frame parts](https://gunstreamer.com/v/FANFyn?b=1)
* [7: slide](https://gunstreamer.com/v/ewnXTC?b=1)
* trailer: [gunstreamer](https://gunstreamer.com/v/tWMFlL?b=1)
## acknowledgements
* Freemen Don't Ask & Ivan
* 304machining re contributions to rail design
* [FOSSCAD](https://fosscad.org/fc/) & [Deterrence Dispensed](https://keybase.io/team/det_disp) communities
* [Defense Distributed](https://defdist.org/)
* KS
* increasingly totalitarian countries for incentivizing gun-work, modeling, and printing
## materials
* 3d printer: Prusa MK3S
* extruder nozzle: Ev3DM Tungsten Nozzle 1.75mm x 0.40mm
* calipers (for slicer filament measurement)
* printer filament: eSun PLA+ (including light blue, yellow, green, red)
## print settings
* slicing:
* slicer: slic3r Prusa Edition v2.1.0
* filament thickness as measured by caliper: ~1.70mm to 1.73 (depending on color/roll)
* temp: 220 (225 & 230 also seem to work well)
* resolution: 0.15mm (performed some at 0.10mm with some nicer detail but longer print time)
* orientation: magwell up
* with magwell down: significantly increases filament usage and print time, as well as surface (rather than interior) support artifacts
* infill: 100%
* supports:
* z-contact: 0.20mm (0.15mm also works but it's more difficult to remove supports)
* pattern: rectilinear (didn't see a huge difference vs. honeycomb when not using sheaths)
* sheath: no (tried both ways, didn't seem to get a lot of help from sheath and it makes support removal much more difficult)
## modifications to FMDA/Ivan G17
### orientation terms
* z-axis: superior/inferior, top/bottom (top = where frame meets slide, even though printed magwell up)
* x-axis: anterior/posterior, front (muzzle) / back (tang)
* y-axis: left/right (with muzzle forward), mid/lateral
### magazine positioning & release
* **mag spring pocket & channel**
* **depth** increased (model issue): model does not leave room for spring. this pocket channel re-created taking into account spring length. note spring bend degree requires greater height
* mag spring length: 36.5mm
* spring pocket depth on mag release: 2.35mm
* pocket bottom to mag release shelf:
* initial fmda/ivan: 28.5mm (protrusion: 8mm; too much protrusion regardless of bend)
* changed to: `34.375` mm (protrusion: 2.125, d=+5.875)
* **window** added to spring pocket to better visualize spring & assist in clearing residual support
* **narrowed** pocket width to better retain spring
* **fulcrum** point of channel reconfigured for optimizing tension & mag release travel
* **mag release shelf** (print issue): 3d print overhang artifact introduces significant friction in left/right movement of mag button. giving slightly extra clearance allows smooth movement without requiring filing, and without compromising function
* **mag stop** (model issue): in glocks & p80s there is a protrusion in left inner top magwell that prevents mags from being inserted too far with forceful insertion. this was added
### slide lock spring pocket
* **depth increase** (model issue): pocket in model not deep enough to allow spring (when under tension) to remain under front rail block (an issue given recoil rod going over this)
* increased to `11` mm
* related measurements: 14.5mm from pocket end to end of bend, rail mid/lower vertical thickness ~5.2mm, init fmda pocket depth ~6.4mm = protrusion of ~2.9mm, without taking into account pocket angle
* **width narrowed**: to `2.9` mm (from 3.20mm, note spring width ~2.39mm)
* **thickness increased**: to `1` mm in order to compensate for printer variance that may preclude spring insertion (from 0.839mm)
* **anterior/posterior clearance increase**: pocket in model too close to slide lock to allow spring to properly be depressed into recess for articulation with slide lock
* distance from anterior inferior aspect of anterior slide lock wall to posterior aspect of pocket: 11.70mm (from 10.102mm)
* bevels removed - the only function they might serve is helping slide the spring into the pocket. a flatter surface seems easier to deal with re supports (in addition to design changes)
### slide & rail fitment
* **locking block post trimming** (model issue): in the path of the slide regardless of print settings
* **top frame clearance with slide** (model issue): the frame and slide need clearance. Without enough clearance you will get friction (interference with cycling) and may have difficulty aligning the slide with the rails
* **rear rail shelf clearance** (model issue): no clearance for shelf/rail - this was added (`0.2` mm)
* **rear rails: distance between slightly narrowed** (model issue):
* changed to match front rail inter-distance
* rear rails in initial model are slightly wider than front rails
* front rail outer width: 23 mm
* rear rail outer width: 23.25 mm
* measurement check: inner rear frame width of 20.072mm (from 20.322mm)
* rationale:
* gives slide/rails slightly more L/R clearance
* if set too wide will have to compensate by loosening rear rail screws (requires more expertise to fit the slide to rails properly and increases chance of screw walking)
* downside: despite being closer to spec, reduces clearance between rear rails & trigger-assembly
### trigger housing L/R shift (model issue)
* moved left by `0.3` mm
* rationale:
* reduce friction between R trigger assembly components, frame, and slide
* connector/bar/cruciform against R frame & rail
* top connector with slide
* prevent/reduce-chance-of ejector slamming into right side of slide plate
* if move ***too far left*** potential issues:
* top of connector may not have enough contact with slide resulting in a failure of reset and potentially chain fires
* increased friction of cruciform with left rear slide rail
* crude quick index: insert mag with slide off - where does ejector align with mag vs. standard glock?
* measurement check via measuring inner trigger housing wall to outer/lateral frame (flat main faces):
* initial: right=8.65 mm, left=7.15 mm
* modified: right=8.95 mm, left=6.85 mm
### trigger & lower trigger guard clearance (3d print issue)
* glock specs leave very little lower trigger clearance
* 3d print overhang/support artifact is enough to contact trigger, with this friction potentially interfering with pull and reset
* cut into lower trigger guard to increase trigger clearance room
### pin hole modifications
#### trigger housing pin
* moved anteriorly to reflect hole placement on housing
* within trigger housing pocket, center of housing pin `2.797` mm from front wall vs. FDMA 3.559 mm (d=0.762mm)
* while this doesn't seem perfectly aligned, the alignment is improved
* thanks to keybase user frankfarter for help with this dimension
#### trigger pin
* moved up/superiorly: `3.345` mm from locking block bed to pin center vs. 3.195 mm in FMDA (d=0.15mm)
* rationale: address problems getting pins in due to obscuration by locking block (vertical misalignment between locking block & frame)
* current work around for FMDA model is to remove a small amount of the top part of the locking block hole to allow the pin in (which may be done unknowingly to just "get the pin to fit") - this can be done with a small steel flathead screwdriver with the locking block in the frame
* distance between locking block & trigger pin centers in top/bottom axis kept the same at `7` mm
* ant/post dimensions kept constant (2.4mm from center locking block to trigger pins, 78.291mm from anterior aspect of rear/top frame tab)
#### sizing
sized the holes to:
* 4mm (trigger)
* 3mm (front rail block, locking block, trigger housing)
* 2.3mm (rear rails)
* rationale - based on post processing method:
* using drill bits (default assumption w sizes above)
* rationale:
* these sizes make it relatively easy to use a drill bit to clear out overhang material
* too large size holes: may increase chance of introducing asymmetry (in addition to obviously increasing risk of loose pins if too far)
* too small: having to remove too much material may increase chance of introducing angle to cylindrical pin channel. tried using half spheres with center orientation point and it was more difficult vs. just the open 3 & 4mm sizes
* rear rail size works well with screws acting as tapping tools
* using screw drivers to clear out overhang material (here only for reference)
* increased all hole diameters, except rear rails, by 0.2mm
* the extra diameter accommodates some for the overhang material
* used this method for first few drafts. not very difficult (just take a small flathead and remove the visually obvious overhang material in the holes)
* however, involves more troubleshooting re potentially removing more non-overhang material with associated risk of creating asymmetries or overly-large holes
* incremental removal with pin fit testing required, which seems harder for noobs than just using a drill bit
* this is obviously also inherently less accurate - if taking extra material into account re diameter then increased risk of misalignment
## testing in 2019
* mag-dump to failure
* with mag dumping ~80 rounds at a time, failure achieved at ~120 rounds with deformation of the slide lock region
* anterior slide lock wall with rearward deformation in shape of rear of recoil rod
* slide lock itself sticking slightly into frame at superior posterior aspect due to milder deformation there
* functionally resulted in failure to return to battery
* slide and slide lock were extremely hot to the touch, likely exceeding PLA's transition temperature
* subsequent testing with ~33 round mag dumps without any appreciable problems - though did switch slides after dumps when slide became too hot to touch with bare hands
* would expect that various readily-available nylon-based filaments would not exhibit the failure noted above
## ongoing modifications thoughts
* when issues with fit and function - these might be classified into:
* model problems (3d printing agnostic): e.g. pocket too large or small in model for known dimensions of part that goes into it
* print problems: e.g. support interface artifact interfering with trigger reset via increased recoil spring friction
* while ostensibly many of mods in this revision address model issues, some modifications may be overly optimized for specific print setup/settings
* identifying such setup-specific optimizations will help make this model more generalizable for printing well in different print environments
* much of the power and appeal of 3d gun printing is in lowering of the skill/tools threshold for manufacturing compared to machining
* thus making it easier to take the model to a functional firearm can amplify this power and appeal
* unresolved issues:
* friction between rear trigger housing assembly & rear rails, resulting in a functional but often gritty trigger
* with straight trigger pull gun seems to "jump" slightly to right
* rails that have a shorter outward extension from midline might resolve this by allowing rails to be moved slightly from midline without increasing slide friction too much. without shortening this dimension of the rails though, increased slide/rear-rail friction will likely result in malfunctions. for now the gritty trigger seems preferable to malfunctions.
* fitment into holsters
* holsters like bladetech use the shape of the trigger guard to yield a tactile "click"
* no significant click with this version - either due to modifications to have trigger clear guard, or due to initial FMDA differences from stock g17
## verifying files
### pgp
PGP can be used to increase confidence you are working with valid model files that haven't been tampered with. The details of verification will vary depending on computer platform (duckduckgo is your friend). For reference the details that follow are for my linux distribution.
Overview:
* start with file to verify, a signature that corresponds that file, and the public key used to create the signature
* verify the signature actually came from the public key and is valid
* use the verified signature to check if the file is valid
Steps:
* obtain public key of signer
* e.g. obtain d33pthought's public key from github repo, keybase, and another trusted individual and notice that it's the same from all sources. in this repo it is contained within the [public_keys.pgp](verification/public_keys.pgp) file
* import the public key:
* `gpg --import PUBLIC_KEY`
* e.g. from root of f17 ffmu dir: `gpg --import verification/public_keys.pgp` (but *should* get pgp file from trusted other source)
* this adds the public key to your local public key ring (a collection of public keys)
* check that it's imported and note the key's keyid:
* `gpg --list-keys --with-subkey-fingerprint`
* check the signature file against the signing key
* `gpg --verify SIGNATURE_FILE`
* e.g. from f17 ffmu root dir: `gpg --verify verification/f17_d33p_ffmu.stl.asc`
* in the output should be:
* using key and then the keyid matching that of the one you obtained above (i.e. using the right key!)
* "Good signature" (the signature is indeed that from the right key)
* check the file against the signature
* `gpg --verify SIGNATURE_FILE FILE_TO_VERIFY`
* e.g. for f17 stl from f17 ffmu root dir: `gpg --verify verification/f17_d33p_ffmu.stl.asc models/f17_d33p_ffmu.stl`
* similar to verifying the signature, in the output should be:
* using key - with the appropriate keyid
* "Good signature"
When is this useful? If you obtain the file, signature, and key from the same source then this is pointless because all three could have been tampered with. If you obtain the public key from a trusted source then this procedure provides a degree of confidence that the file has not been tampered with.
### checksums
Specifics may differ on different platforms. On my linux distribution check via `sha512sum FILENAME` then comparing the result to that listed in the checksum file. I you get the checksums and files from the same place, then a malicious actor could just change both. So try and correlate checksums with a trusted source. To get all checksums at once, enter the directory with model files and run `sha512sum *`
## feedback
* please report if you have problems, particularly if you have taken associated measurements of problem regions of your print re above modification goals
* details and clarity are appreciated in feedback - e.g. reporting "0% modifications necessary" when you had to spend an hour filing and dremeling hurts the cause
* feedback venues include:
* keybase: [det_disp](https://keybase.io/team/det_disp) & [fosscad](https://keybase.io/team/fosscad_org) groups
* [fosscad git](https://github.com/maduce/fosscad-repo) run by maduce

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# f17 free folk measure up assembly
post-processing & part insertion
## materials
* tools
* drill with 4mm & 3mm bits
* large & small flathead screwdrivers (my small set: 1.4-3mm)
* screw/hex tool depending on rear rail screw head type
* eye protection (avoid filament in eye)
* needle-nose pliers
* components
* slide rails: front rail block, larger left rear rail, smaller right rear rail (spooky rails)
* screws: 4 x 8mm M2.5 screws (I used hex-head from McMaster-Carr)
* useful to also have 1 x 10mm screw for threading frame to rails
* hex-head screws make syncing the rail/frame threads easier (tools are generally smaller)
* M2.5 spring washers x 4 (amazon)
* gen-3 glock parts kit
## support removal
* I try to only use a set of pliers gripping only support material for most of print (related video: support removal part 1)
* this reduces marring the surface of the print
* fingers/fingernails seem to work well for starting support removal on grip anterior & superficial embellishments
* trigger guard supports can usually be removed without tools by pushing in on one side with a finger, then the other, to loosen and then push out one side
* then I'll transition to a small flathead screwdrivers for: (related video: support removal part 2)
* remaining support material in mag release shelf & mag release spring regions (if any)
* slide lock region
* bottom of grip tang
* top/bottom of trigger guard
* large chunks of support in and on pin holes
* I try to get them roughly cylindrical without taking chunks out of the hole walls proper
* thumbrest regions
* surface embellishments with small region-overhangs
* caution needed to not mar decorations here - small forceful motions perpendicular to surface seem to work best to pop material up without scratching surface
## drill holes & fit pins
* goal:
* align with opposite side
* allow pins to fit snugly
* avoid thor hammering that can damage/deform plastic
* pins not so loose they'll walk / fall-out
* drill bit sizes:
* 4mm: trigger pin (lower middle)
* 3mm: front rail block (anterior), locking block (upper middle), and trigger housing (rear) pins
* do not need to drill rear rail holes
* process
* remove overt overhang artifact material with small flathead screwdriver to make holes as cylindrical as possible prior to drilling
* drill one side at a time to avoid over-drilling
* keep drill bits as perpendicular to surface as possible, aligning with opposing side
* incrementally remove filament
* initially try to remove as little as possible (forward drill through hole, then reverse drill back out only if need to)
* try pin fitment
* if too tight then try removing a little more
* using technique of moving smaller bit around in a circle will decrease accuracy / alignment of holes - minimize this as much as possible
* make sure all pins fit ok before adding any other parts to frame
* if they don't fit without parts, why would they *with* parts?
* fit locking block & trigger pins in locking block before proceeding
* easier to enlarge hole now rather than later take parts out
* if difficulty fitting locking block and/or trigger pins
* ensure locking block bed is clear of support/artifact material - consider using a small flathead screwdriver to scrape these away
* to help alignment when inserting trigger pin, consider using a glock tool from the other side -- to help alignment rotate the glock tool while attempting to push pin further
* if can get get trigger pin but not locking block pin in, look through the hole with other side illuminated by e.g. white paper with light on it -- if you notice that locking block taking a part of the lower pin-hole, consider attempting to scrape off residual support/artifact from top of pinhole using a small flathead screwdriver
## parts assembly
### rear rail insertion
* ensure there is no more support material left on rail shelves or in trigger housing pocket
* sync ("time") threads between rails/frame:
* for this part try using screws ~2mm longer than those you'll use in final assembly (e.g. 10mm screws instead of 8mm) - this ensure threads reach outer/lateral frame
* I use a jig to make this easier (optional; model provided)
* first insert a rear screw from the inside out (the +2mm screw if you have it)
* depending on head size put hex wrench through opposite hole or angled from top of frame
* hold rail tightly to inner side of frame (+/- jig)
* get screw through to opposite side of frame, but do not strongly tighten
* repeat for other screw on this rail
* remove rail for which threads synchronized, and repeat process with other rail
* insert screws and washers w proper orientation - do not over-tighten
* I use 1 spring washer on each rear rail screw
### front rail block
* drop in & insert associated pin, should be a relatively tight fit
* I've had no issues with this - have not required epoxy like Ivan mentioned in assembly video
### slide & rail alignment pre-check
* attach full slide assembly onto front rails
* before getting anywhere near rear rails check slide movement over frame to ensure the presence of only minimal friction with the front rail block
* cautiously/slowly approach rear rails to check alignment
* if alignment ok, proceed to install other frame components as follows
### mag release
* insert mag spring into channel using needle-nose pliers
* if there is debris in channels, use a small flathead screwdriver from bottom of magwell to clear this out through the window in bottom of spring channel
* insert mag release
* should go in smoothly without need to file due to added clearance
* should be able to move left/right without any significant friction
* non-button side should NOT be able to protrude all the way into magwell
* use a flathead screwdriver to bend the spring into the mag release
### slide lock assembly
* slide lock spring should easily slide into pocket
* lock should easily slide over depressed spring
* if difficulty due to front rail block, take out front rail block to make first spring-insertion easier
* see slide section re tension exerted on slide assembly
* troubleshooting if slide lock spring won't fit
* use a very small hand-drill set to widen dimensions until spring fits - should not be necessary with increased clearance in model but different filaments & print settings/calibration may introduce inaccuracies requiring correction
### trigger assembly
* trigger assembly with housing into its pocket
* troubleshooting trigger housing insertion
* if due to print/printer inaccuracy the pocket is not wide enough, first ensure there is no residual support/artifact material in pocket - if so attempt removing with a small flathead screwdriver. attempt to discern what dimension increased friction is at. sometimes removing the trigger bar/spring from housing makes it easier to fit. worst case scenario may need to use a file to incrementally remove material until fitment achieved (should only be required if serious inaccuracy in print)
* trigger down into guard
* trigger housing pin
### locking block
* insert block then locking block pin
### trigger pin & slide stop
* insert slide stop - align in trigger hole
* insert trigger pin
* using a glock tool in the opposite side can sometimes help align components for inserting-pin
### slide & rail fitting / tightening
* once have other frame components installed proceed to try slide fitment again
* points of potential friction / resistance - in order as slide pulled back
* locking block posts - this should be fixed with changes made in this model
* rear recoil spring guide rod to front of frame, then to lower horseshoe-shape elevation in front of front rail block
* as with p80 builds these regions can be a source of friction with the spring
* if this is causing failure to return to battery, test by removing front rail block and doing vertical/45-degree test - raising slide off front of frame should alleviate any friction with return to battery
* trigger bar arm that articulates with safety plunger
* this first touches part of the slide, then later the safety plunger itself
* ejector front must clear slide plate aperture
* FMDA version is shifted so ejector will orient to smack the right upper aspect of the slide plate
* left rail front
* ejector may hit rear striker assembly if oriented too rightwards
* right rail front
* slide lock - I found with some iterations strong resistance initially that abated over a few repeat slide removals/insertions. watch the side of the slide lock to see when it engages with slide insertion. for first few times putting slide on may have to manually depress slide lock
* top of connector with slide
* slide pushes this in right/left dimension to reset the trigger
* obviously important, but shouldn't be too much friction/resistance (try comparing to another stock glock if possible)
* once slide over rear rails incrementally increase tightness
* recommend tightening one screw a little, then going through other screws before coming back to same screw
* check slide movement over front/rear rails in between tightening
* final tightness
* no concrete/objective measure for this yet but consider:
* with 1 washer on each of screws: no gaps between frame/washers/screw-head
* rails parallel to frame (no tilting)
* rail tilting might result from:
* overtightening with non-straight rail or frame threads
* over-elevated rail shelf (should not be a problem with these model changes)
* if experiencing this try loosening/tightening screws with slide on
* possible evidence of over-tightening:
* distorting frame geometry (bunching up on top of frame where plastic relatively thin)
* protrusion of screws interiorly beyond rails
* stripping of hex screw heads
* increased friction with slide (since tightening pulls rails outwards, decreasing left/right clearance):
* difficulty getting slide on ***after*** tightening
* failed vertical dry fire test (see below)
* possible evidence of not enough tightening:
* friction between right rail and trigger housing assembly (e.g. connector grinding against rail with trigger pull and/or reset)
* possible evidence of left/right misalignment
* unequal left/right clearance of ejector back with back slide plate
* top of connector not properly engaging slide to reset trigger
* slide clearly engaging left or right rear rail more
## function checking
### magazine insertion/removal
* smooth insertion (if friction look for residual support, or inspect for dimensional inaccuracies from printing)
* mag release & spring should catch and retain the mag in position with only minimal movement
* forceful insertion should NOT lead to vertical over-protrusion of magazine
* there is a small protrusion on the left side of magwell that should prevent this (mag stop)
* if overprotrudes this could lead to feeding issues
* check tension required to fully engage mag release button
* check that magazine drops free easily with normal-force button push
### slide alignment
* as above re rail tightening/fitment
* ensure fully returns to battery
### trigger pull and reset
* note that trigger pull is still slightly gritty vs. stock glock due to thickness of the rear rails
* test with slide off - push connector bar forward (ready to fire) then pull trigger
* trigger should NOT contact lower guard (fixed in this version)
* pushing connector forward should be relatively easy
* then test with slide on
* each slide rack should result in complete trigger reset
* vertical test
* dry fire trigger
* pull slide back with barrel pointing upwards
* very slowly let slide forward so that it doesn't yet go back into battery
* slowly tilt front of barrel from up to parallel with floor
* slide should go back into battery shortly after moving from vertical position (~45 deg per glock armorer manual)
* note: if not to battery due to rear rail tightness, this can be demonstrated by holding muzzle up are rapid return to battery achieved with screw loosening
* troubleshooting:
* significantly gritty pull and/or reset
* no reset
* if you have unresolved issues with reset during dry firing DO NOT LIVE-FIRE
* sear not re-engaging rear-striker
* increased friction of trigger housing components against rails and/or frame
* on right: connector / trigger bar / cruciform
* on left: cruciform
* slide not engaging top of connector to pop sear back up
## potential malfunctions
* stovepipes / failure to eject
* consider loss of slide energy from too much friction between slide & frame/rails
* evidence by increased friction racking slide
* find and resolve friction points
* limp-wristing
* defective extractor assembly or ejector
* underpowered ammo
* non-standard unbalanced spring setups
* chain-fire (never happened to me)
* one trigger pull -> multiple shots
* see above re trigger pull/reset

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Comment: https://keybase.io/download
Version: Keybase Go 4.2.0 (windows)
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-----END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK-----