Adding GI Magazine Belt Clip by WarFairy. Also fixing some file extentions and file names.

Misc/GI_Magazine_Belt_Clip-WarFairy/README.md

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+# GI Magazine Belt Clip
+
+#### Version
+
+1.0
+
+#### Author
+
+WarFairy
+
+
+#### Description
+
+Picture this. You're walking through the woods after the society you've come to know and love has ended. You only had time to grab your rifle and throw a few magazines into the pocket of your cargo pants. Don't pretend you're not wearing cargo pants right now, I know you are. Suddenly the Fifth Mongolian Horde is coming over the plains. All that stands between them and the Orphanage is you and your rifle. Thirty rounds go down range in seconds. What's this? You forgot to unbutton your cargo pocket. Sloppy, very sloppy. You should be ashamed. As you fumble with those stupid buttons, you are over run by the dirty Mongolians. The last thing you see is orphans running about on fire, blaming you for not being able to reload fast enough. If only you had been able to hang your magazines on your High Speed Low Drag Operator Extraordinaire belt.
+
+NOW YOU CAN!
+
+Look at these magazine clips. LOOK AT THEM. In the renders, the Blue Clips are Left Hand, the Red are Right hand. Now I want you to figure out which hand you use to shoot. Choose the file that says RH for right handed, or LH for Left Handed (you freak). You've got three options for attachment to the base of your magazines. The Bolted_Clamp requires a nut and bolt to go through the tab/hole at the gap. Rubber_Band_Clamp has a groove around the clamp into which you're going to place a couple strong rubber bands. Filament_Clamp has three holes for 1.75 mm filament. You're doing to put a bit of Acetone, ABS Cement (Weld-On #3 is recommended) or Super Glue down both sets of holes (the ones that go all the way through, and the ones that don't), and then quickly shove a section of 1.75mm filament down into the holes. As the Cement cures, it will bind the clamp together. It is HIGHLY recommended that you put positive pressure on the sides to make sure the clamp is as tight as it can be.
+
+It is highly recommended to place the clamp as close to the base as you can so that the baseplate of the magazine prevents deformation of the magazine body (in case you over-tighten). Once the clamps are in place, they should be secure enough for use. For further security, place some acetone or cement on the inside surfaces of the clamp so that it binds to the surface texture of your GI Magazine.
+
+Printing these should be rather stress-free. They're already oriented. ABS is recommended for all three versions. If Nylon is used, Filament_Clamp will not work, but will be just fine for the other two. PLA is not recommended due to its lack of flexibility and brittleness.
+
+These clamps are configured for 1.5" belts or Molle webbing.

Rifles/WarFairy_P-15_Stock-Shanrilivan/README.md

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-#The WarFairy P-15 Stock
-
-Keep an eye out for the P-15 foregrip to go along with this release. Coming soon...
-
-##INSTRUCTIONS:
-
-You will need glue that works for your chosen material.
-Included in this package are 2 versions of the stock body. If your print envelope is LESS than 10” on any axis, use the back and front halves. If you have a Rostock Max or other large format printer, use the Full Stock file (you lucky bastard).
-
-##FAIR WARNING: 
-
-The stock is mostly solid. If my program is correct, and you make it 100% infill, it will weigh 3 bloody pounds. Please, for the love of god, set your infill to between 50 and 75 percent to save yourself the heartache of burning through all of your precious goo or running out mid-print.
-
-Alright, All parts need to be printed back to front save for one. The Butt pad needs printed from front to back. Make sure everything is aligned correctly in your slicer.
-
-Once you have everything printed out, refer to the included exploded view render to see how to assemble all the various bits.
-You will NEED to slightly rough the two long pegs on the front of the “Stock Back Half” before applying glue and pushing onto the “Stock Front Half”. The two flat faces need to have a small amount of glue applied to them.
-
-BEFORE YOU GLUE THE STOCK CaP, do a test assembly of the stock cap, your chosen number of spacers and the butt plate. Slip onto the main stock body and make sure that the length of pull (distance between the butt of the stock and the trigger cutout) is comfortable for you. It is rather short without any spacers (yes, you can run it without spacers), so ENSURE that you are comfortable with the length of the assembly before you glue the pegs, spacers, cap and plate together.
-
-DO NOT Glue the stock cap onto the main stock body. The Stock Body has a cavity for your cleaning kit or anything else you want on the weapon at all times. This is accessable by simply tugging back wards on the Stock Cap assembly. It shouldn't be loose, but you shouldn't have to crank it off either.
-
-I LEAVE IT UP TO YOU to decide if you want to slightly sand the short pegs. As they are, they should be a tight fit into the holes they go to. And hey, if you mess it up, just print some more. They're only ½ inch in diameter and 10mm long.
-
-##YOU WILL NEED 
-1 Each; Butt Pad, Stock Back Half, Stock Front Half and Stock Cap.
-6 Pegs
-OPTIONAL:
-Spacers: They are 10mm thick each for reference. For each spacer you add, you will need an aditional 4 pegs.
-
-HAPPY HUNTING,
-The War Fairy,
-Shanrilivan
-Contact me at #defcad on irc.oftc.net if you have any issues.