fosscad-repo/Firearms/The_Holdout_v3.0-RollaTroll

The Holdout v3.0

####General Information and Warnings

First off, this is a 3d printed gun. It is in not in any way guaranteed to be safe or legal. The author has tried to the best of his abilities to make it as printable, safe, economical and law abiding as possible, but no guarantees can be made. The author will take no responsibility for any issues that may be caused in any way by the manufacture, use, possession, modification, distribution or other act involving this design. 3d printing is an emerging field, and printed guns are in their infancy, so take all safety precautions.

####Printing

Print one of each part except:
20mm_Nail_Rounded
Steel_Piece
They are provided for reference only. You MUST use ABS filament or stronger. PLA WILL BLOW UP. *RollaTroll death stares all who have published and publicized biased results*

#####Printing orientations:

• Barrel – Vertical, with the bore perpendicular to the print bed. The front sights should not be against the print bed.
• Barrel Block Left/Right – Vertical, so the protrusions from the main flat face slope up and outward. A partial circle should be flush to the print bed.
• Barrel Lock – Vertical, so the head is flush to the print bed.
• Grip Thickener Left/Right – Horizontal, so the bevelled protrusions on the larger flat surface face upwards. The piece should lay flat and taper upward outward.
• Hammer – Horizontal, either side is ok.
• Nail Buffer – Horizontal, either side will work.
• Sear – Horizontal, on its left side. There should be no overhang.
• Sear Rod – Vertical, on its head preferable. Either way should work though.
• Side Left/Right – Horizontal. Should be obvious, but the large flat face is flush against the print bed.
• Trigger – Horizontal, on its right side. There should be no overhang.

Hardware

#####Collect:

1 X 20mm Nail
1 X 1 inch Plain Steel Flat Bar with 1/4 inch thickness, at least 4 inches long (this is recommended).
3 X Rubber band (orthodontics works great. Try these).
1 X Epoxy

Preparation and Assembly

To avoid accidents, do all of the following instructions first without epoxy. Once you are sure everything fits, only then should you glue everything together.

Cut 2 X 2 inch (50.8mm) lengths of the steel bar. Err on the side of caution, it has been allowed for. Assuming you are using the recommended lengths of steel, the combined weight should be well over the 3.7oz required by law.

Epoxy 1 piece of steel into each Side. Loop rubber bands to the Hammer and Sear (not to each other, just secure the rubber band to the piece). To do so, one must thread one end of the loop through the hole in the part, pull it back around and thread it through the other end of the band. See this if you are confused. If you still can't work it out, I think you have some deeper problems to worry about.

Fit the Sear onto the Trigger and epoxy the Sear Rod in. Make sure the sear can still turn smoothly, and no excess epoxy has gotten in the way. You may also fit the Hammer in place on the Left Side. This should be fairly self-explanatory. The rubber band should loop onto the rod above it. As this design (at the time of writing) has not been tested, one may need to use multiple rubber bands to create tension sufficient for firing.

One should be able to lay the 20mm Nail in the groove meant for it. The Nail Buffer should fit in the area behind it, keeping the nail from sliding back into the main cavity of the weapon, while the head should keep it from sliding forward. The Trigger and Sear may also be placed into the Left Side at this time. One should loop a rubber band from the rod integrated into the Trigger to the rod just forward and down from it. It may require some looping of the rubber band to make it short enough.

You should now be glue to epoxy the Right Side onto the left. Put a bit of epoxy in each reciprocating hole and on all interfacing surfaces, especially the steel piece. There's no going back now. You should be able to test the firing mechanism at this point. If all works, you may now glue the Barrel Blocks in place. This should be obvious as to how it fits, so long as you have to correct pieces for each side. The grip thickeners can also be done, and should be even more obvious. Let it all sit for a day or so.

One everything has set up, slot the Barrel on and press the Barrel Lock in to the barrel in place. One should be able to have it rotated so it out of the way of the trigger area. If all is as it should be, test firing should now be possible.

Rotate the Barrel Lock down, and you should be able to pull it out. Slide the Barrel off, load it, and secure it all again. Be sure to have a remote firing setup (clamp and string). If it works, YAY. If not, maybe try again? This is why you must make sure you use enough rubber bands to begin with. There is no going back if it isn’t powerful enough. Granted, as much as this whole design weighs, printing it all over again shouldn't take too long. If there is a definite problem, check the FOSSCAD IRC for help. If it is an issue with the design itself, get into contact with RollaTroll on there too.

History and Other Notes

This is a bit more of a personal note here, from the designer. I started v1 of this design in January of 2014. Having recently finished the Harry Potter series (not for the first time), I fell into a state of listlessness I call 'Post Harry Potter Depression', or PHPD. I then decided to keep myself occupied, and set myself to design this. It took about a month and a half to finish. v2 started a couple month or so later, and took another 8 months to finish completely, though it was largely done within about 6 months. v2 had become bloated and impractical in feature structure; I was cutting bits out and putting them back in more than I was actually getting work done. So I started v3 once most things were done on v2. v3 was a complete remake from scratch, though it was based off the profile of v2. It then evolved and quickly superseded v2. I finally finished v2.1 late December, 235 days after starting that version. v3 was finished in just over 3 months, quite an improvement on the time it took for v2. All CAD work for this design was finished exactly 1 year after its beginning. I will admit, I was 1 hour 25 minutes late, but I was at a conference, and time got short :P

Anyway, this design marks the end of guns from me for a while. I will return, but I think this should tide things over. I would love to see someone else make a better design, as I have been filling this niche for a while now. I am untrained, so I have no doubt things can be done better. Along with that though, I hope this can replace the Liberator. It is better in almost every measurable way. Printability, weight, safety and durability. So stop saying printed guns are horrible, the Liberator was a stepping stone, not the final product. This too is only a stepping stone, so feel free to modify this as you wish. If you modify this, it is highly recommended that you credit me in some way. Please do not redistribute this outside of the FOSSCAD Megapack. I do not want this publicized, though I understand I cannot stop it.

All the best! Be safe and have fun.

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