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README.md |
README.md
G19 BTB Pineapple Standard Pistol Frame
Author
BobtheBuilder
version
1.0
Description
This is the Glock style G19 BTB Blaster 9mm Pistol Frame and DIY Rail System by BobTheBuilder. This is NOT your normal Glock 19 frame. This is a custom G19 frame that uses a G26 parts kit and a DIY G17 metal rails system.
MODIFY THE FRAME AND DO YUR CRAZY DESIGN I WANNA SEE INNOVATION! If you come up with something neat send me a message and show me!
History
Yea I was tired and should have put it in the ReadMe.. this all started because someone asked me to do a G19.. I said naahhh.. because lazy.. and theen it was stuck in my head so I did, but because I made the G26L and I knew it well I just used that to extend the grip.. the thing is the G26L was designed using a G19 upper half and shortening the grip. the problem is the G19 doesnt have enough room for the front the G17 DIY rail block that was available. So you either make new rails with different variants, or use a G26 parts kits (for a G26L which makes perfect sense). It gets weird when you extend the grip back to a G19 length because the top half sttarted as a G19 that got shortened..Extend it and its a G19 again.. well yes, but it still uses a G26 parts kit.
Conclusion:
- Yes the BobTheBuilder G19 (and all variants, as well as the G26L) use G26 lower parts kits)
- The only difference with the G26 and G19 parts kits are the locking block ears length and the takedown lever spring is a little longer.
- My G26L which has not had one failure is running a G17 Spring thats trimmed a little and a G19 locking block that I ground the ear tips down a touch.
Solution:
- Use a G26 lower parts kit, G19 complete slide, and a G19 magazine.
- Use a G19 lower parts kit, G19 complete slide, and a G19 magazine. But trim the spring, and trim the locking block ears OR trim the upper rear corners of the front rails.
- So if you are buying a kit for this project, get a G26 kit. If you have a G19 kit laying around you want to use and have a bench grinder available, its an easy mod that does not affect reliability.
Instruction Videos
Below is a list of said videos for FreeMenDontAsk's Glock 17 Gen 3 Pistol Frame and DIY Rail System. The G19 BTB design is similar in construction and so the follow videos may be of useful.
FreeMan's Glock 17 Assembly Tutorial Playlist:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZzfUB_pwdJ58NWjy10gbhjhukDxxcxUf
FreeMan's Glock 17 Assembly Tutorial Parts 1-3 (Same as above Playlist):
- Part 1 - https://gunstreamer.com/watch/U3T4bJjzVALzZdc
- Part 2 - https://gunstreamer.com/watch/4rCjJh2MX6gTlLG
- Part 3a - https://gunstreamer.com/watch/4HD8mNDIdbbMwQS
- Part 3b - https://gunstreamer.com/watch/115JAEQDa87zTBK
- Part 3c - https://gunstreamer.com/watch/uBbhEQt7i2CSkOI
Tools and Parts List
Below is a list of tools, parts and materials used to complete this project.
Materials
- Epoxy
- Sandpaper
- .75"x1" bar stock of Aluminum, Steel or Stainless Steel
- M2.5 x 8mm screws (M2 screws can be used but M2.5 is recommended)
Tools
- Dremel Tool (Dremel 3000 works well)
- Cutting wheels, sanding wheels, polishing wheel and compound
- Metal files, including small diameter rat-tailed file
- Manual Mill, CNC Mill or X-Y Vise on a Drill Press (to mill the rails)
- M2.5 tap + 2.05mm drill bit
- Drill (battery, corded, or hand)
- Small and medium sized screwdriver
- Small punches
Required Parts
- G26 parts kit
- G19 Complete slide
- DIY G17 Rail system
- G19 magazine or larger
Note: Technically you can use a G19 parts kit if you cut down the locking block and slide lock spring to size.
The Rails
Reference the Front and Rear Rail Drawings in the SpecSheets folder for the technical dimensions of the DIY rails. The rails use a roll pin and screws in the rear. Rails can me made in Aluminum, Steel, or Stainless Steel.
The specs for the rails are minimum dimensions; aim to overshoot them slightly if you are manually milling them. The dimensions given are for CNC or a milling setup. DO NOT UNDERSHOOT THE GIVEN DIMENSIONS. You can always remove more material if the slide does not fit, it is much harder to material after the fact.
Print Settings
- Print in PLA or ABS
- Infill: 99% infill
- Orientation: Print frame upside down
Note: PLA will not stand up to hot environments. The gun itself will not hold enough heat to hurt the frame but a PLA frame sitting in a hot car will damage it.
Post Print Finishing of Frame
Refer to the instruction videos above. In general, it is the same process as putting a normal Glock together but with the required rails. The only part that really needs hand fitting is the locking block. The locking block needs to be tight, so it may take a bit to get situated correctly.
4. Assembly Notes
Important items to note about assembly are in the instructional videos. Below are some additional notes:
- Holes must be drilled to size. Do not try to hammer the pins in. They should go in easy.
- If your front rail block is loose, consider a little JB weld or epoxy on the sides and front to steady it. A loose front rail can cause issues.
- If the locking block pin holes do not line up, do not try and force the pins through.
- Yes, the rear rails are necessary; do not fire the gun without them.
- Check your rail height by pressing down on the barrel when the gun is in battery. It should depress some but should not unlock the action. If the action unlocks, your rails are way too high. Watch the machining video for more information.
General Assembly:
- Add front rail section
- Add locking block
- Add slide lock
- Add trigger bar/housing assembly
- Remove trigger bar/housing assembly once fitment is verified
- Screw in rear rails
- Reinstall trigger assembly
- Pin in the locking block, trigger assembly, and slide stop
- Ensure the rails are flat/on the same plane using a straight edge
- Ensure fitment of the slide with barrel and spring removed
- Ensure fitment and function of the pistol with barrel and spring installed
- Function test! Function test! Function test! Rack that slide real hard.